November Not Too Far From Here... Cederberg

The Month visited the Cederberg earlier and the hike shown below forms the basis of an article in the Novemebr edition of The Month.


EveryTrail - Find the best

Alto releases limited edition red blend - MPHS, at R700 a bottle.

Schalk van der Westhuizen is marking his first decade as winemaker of Alto with the release of MPHS, a powerful but sleek micro-cuvée created to honour the extraordinary soils and location of this dryland Stellenbosch red wine estate set high on the Helderberg Mountain.

Just six barrels (amounting to 1 800 litres) have been made of the maiden 2007 vintage of the 67/33 blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for two years in wood and then left to mature in the bottle for another year before release.

The cryptic name MPHS reflects the initials of the four winemakers who have built the reputation of the farm. They are Manie Malan, whose father planted only red varietals on Alto as early as the 1920s; Piet du Toit, who acquired the farm in 1959; his son, Hempies, the renowned Springbok rugby player, who took over in 1983; and Schalk himself, who joined Alto in 2000.

Like its maker, MPHS is big and muscular but also lithe and restrained.  Its concentrated black and red fruit flavours have been tempered by 24 months in new French oak. 

It is produced from what Van der Westhuizen believes are the farm’s best two blocks of the two varietals chosen for the blend: a 2 ha block of Cabernet Franc planted 350m above sea level in deep red Hutton soils and 11 years’ old at the time of picking; and a 5 ha block of Cabernet Sauvignon, sited 500m above sea level and established in stony granite soils, with the vines 14 years old in 2007.

Both vineyards are cooled by afternoon maritime breezes blowing off False Bay to protract ripening. Under viticulturist Eben Archer, a strong focus was placed on vine root development and distribution in these vineyards which today produce fruit of exceptional balance.

 “Prof Archer has shown that there is a direct correlation between the quality of the vine root system and eventual grape and wine quality,” says Van der Westhuizen.  “The size, health and activity of the root system impact on the growth of the shoots and leaves above the ground.  By applying carefully designed soil surface management techniques coupled with the optimal spacing of vine rows and vines within each row, and the use of vertical seven-wire trellising systems, a favourable balance is achieved between subterranean and surface growth of the vines. As a result, the total volume of roots is matched by the total volume of top growth, including fruit, leaves, trunk and stems.

“Thanks to the condition of the vines and their deep root systems, we were able to pick the grapes at 26° Balling and still ensure an excellent balance between fruit flavour, acid and sugar.  We harvested on taste, when the tannins were fully ripened and the berries had reached a peak of flavour concentration. 

“Normally, these grapes would find their way into our larger-volume Cabernet Sauvignon or Alto Rouge wines but these gems have been given a voice of their own in the new blend.  We selected the best-of-best fruit and had to compete with the baboons to make sure we got to it before they did!” says Van der Westhuizen. “They have an unerring instinct for always identifying the prime quality berries.”

He says the wine’s fruit intensity has been contained by extended ageing in medium-toasted small barrels, sourced from three coopers to add to its complexity.  “I originally thought 18 months would be enough but the fruit was still too powerful at that point.  Two years was just the time the wine needed in wood to create the rounded but graceful richness and complexity I was aiming for.”

After the final assemblage the wine was very lightly filtered before it was bottled.

He is proud of the pleasing harmony of MPHS.  “When you pick at such ripeness, it is always a challenge to achieve a finessed profile but I think we have succeeded. The wine is ready for enjoyment now but it has the structure to age for a decade at least.”

In his typically modest and understated way, he explains that the idea for MPHS was prompted by one of Alto’s strongest advocates, Janånke Johansson, the farm’s Swedish importer and a widely respected wine judge and trader, who believed the time had come for a small-edition, hand-made wine that would reflect the very best of Alto to aficionados.

MPHS will only be made during outstanding vintages and the ratio of the two Cabernets will depend on the profile of the fruit each year. “We take our cue from nature on this and no two vintages are likely to follow the exact same recipe.”

 

Locally the wine is available from a small selection of stockists and retails at around R700 per bottle.  For details of where it is being sold, contact Cape Legends on 021 809 7000.

‘Fragile Earth’ Glass Exhibition showcases @ The Gallery

Award-winning artist, Jeannette Unite showcases a unique collection of transmogrified glass artwork aptly called ‘Fragile Earth’ in ‘The Project Room’ at ‘The Gallery’ at Grande Provence Heritage Wine Estate, Franschhoek which runs from Sunday 10, October 2010 – Wednesday 1, December 2010.
 

Jeannette began experimenting with glassmaking in 1999 and since then her works in glass have become an important addition to her deep and insightful exploration of the legacy of industrial and especially mining, as well as activities on the South African landscape. Glass, with its fragility and strength and ability to reflect and refract colour in exquisite and unique ways, clearly makes for fascinating viewing.

A collection of soils, terra and terroir is incorporated into this exclusive art concept. Inspiration and visual exploration are derived from her journey to the Rift Valley, Kenya, Simon van der Stel’s copper mine in Namaqualand, among others. In the glass, she uses volcanic molten temperature to catalyse colour. www.artunite.com  

Also on exhibition in ‘The Gallery’ at Grande Provence, from Sunday 31, October 2010 until Wednesday 1, December 2010,  is the Painters Who Print – Art on Paper’ exhibition includes the following artists - Kim Berman and Karin Daymond, focussing on landscapes, Johann Louw and Robert Hodgins studies the human form and frailties in the work, Penny Siopis and Judith Mason examine social issues, Deborah Bell and Colbert Mashile wonders into the world of archetypes and occasionally mythical, with Pat Mautloa and Andre Naude analysing the female form. Renowned sculptors Lourens Joubert, Karin Lijnes and Wilma Cruise will also be exhibiting.

For further information on The Gallery at Grande Provence Heritage Wine Estate, contact gallery@grandeprovence.co.za. For a preview, please call The Gallery on +27 (0)21 876 8630 to make an appointment. The Gallery is open from Monday to Sunday, from 10h00 till 18h00.

Uitkyk Turns Heads

As elegant, graceful and understated as its historic 1788 manor house, thought to have been designed by renowned French architect Louis Michel Thibault, Uitkyk’s wines and potstill brandy have succeeded in impressing the 2010 Veritas judges, winning three golds and four silvers.

The trio of golds went to both the 2009 and 2010 vintages of the Simonsberg estate’s Sauvignon blanc, made in the tropical style, as well as to the venerable but still very vibrant 2001 Carlonet, a classic South African Cabernet Sauvignon. Full-bodied with ripe berry characters, the wine is a long-standing favourite of local wine lovers, enjoyed for its refreshing fruit as much as for its fine-grained, sturdy structure.

The 2007 vintage, only just beginning to come into its own now that its fruit and wood characters have had sufficient time to meld into a harmonious whole, took silver in the competition.

The accolades for this august red are well-timed as the wine, named after Prussian nobleman Hans von Carlowitz, who bought Uitkyk in 1929, prepares to celebrate its 50^th anniversary next year.

Uitkyk’s other Veritas silver medalists this year were the 2007 vintage of the spicy, succulent and savoury limited-edition Special Reserve Shiraz; the 2009 Chardonnay with its citrus fruit and vanilla notes; and the 10 Year Grand Reserve Brandy, the specialty potstill that won gold at the International Wine & Spirit Challenge in London earlier this year.

Uitkyk’s winemaker is Estelle Lourens. The estate is represented by Cape Legends.

Some Clarity re Olive Oils

Carle, at Hidden Valley Wines, sent The Month this press release from SA Oliveupon reading our recent Olive Spoils article (below):

Liquid gold, as olive oil enthusiasts call their favourite gastronomic ingredient, has once again caught the limelight – this time due to dubious practices of certain restaurants parading seed oils as Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Well known TV programme Carte Blanche recently reported on these fraudulent practices where consumers are being mislead regarding the quality and origin of the supposed olive oil they are served with.
  SA Olive, the voluntary association representing the interests of the SA olive industry, has made their outrage known. “When something like this happens in another country the South African Olive Industry frowns upon it, but when it happens in South Africa we are truly horrified,” says SA Olive chairman, Andries Rabie. “Our industry cannot afford consumers to doubt the quality of South African olive oils and the trustworthiness of our labelling.” SA Olive pulls together olive growers, olive oil producers, table olive producers and olive tree nurseries in order to promote the industry but also to protect the interests of the consumers of this healthy product.
  “Similar deceptive practices have reared their ugly heads in South Africa before,” says Rabie, “and for this reason SA Olive instituted the Member of SA Olive Commitment to Compliance Scheme (CTC) back in 2005 as the first step in establishing control over the labelling procedures of local products.”
  Participation of SA Olive members to the CTC scheme is voluntary and self-regulating. Their commitment to the initiative is shown with the “Member of SA Olive” seal on their bottles. Producers whose products bear this seal of authenticity confirm that the content is 100% locally produced and made in accordance with the SA Olive Code of Conduct and Practice based on international standards. Furthermore, those who subscribe to the CTC scheme label their products in an honest and comprehensible manner and indicate the freshness of the oil by clearly displaying the year of harvest on the label.
  “A knowledgeable consumer is a satisfied one,” says Rabie. “It is vital that consumers are able to discern between the various kinds of olive oils available.” He explains that Extra Virgin Olive Oil is a natural, unrefined olive oil with a free acidity of below 0.8%, no defects and a fruity characteristic. For a local olive oil to be classified as Extra Virgin it has to undergo strict testing, which includes a chemical and organoleptic analysis, handled by a tasting panel convened by SA Olive in Paarl every consecutive week.
  In comparison, Virgin Olive Oil is also a natural unrefined olive oil but with a free acidity between 0,8% and 2% and with minimal defects. Olive oils which are flawed and unfit for consumption need to undergo a refining process during which they are deodorised and bleached. The result is a tasteless, almost colourless product called refined olive oil. In turn, Olive Pomace Oil is a solvent extracted from the solid press cake residue. It cannot be classified as or called Olive Oil, specifically not as Pomace Olive Oil which one often sees on labels. It should in fact read „Olive Pomace Oil‟. *
  “Consumers are right to demand that the olive oil they are served are pure,” says Rabie. “The natural antioxidants in Extra Virgin Olive Oil make it so much healthier than olive oil that has been refined. The refining process which other vegetable oils, such as canola oil, have to be subjected to in order to be fit for human consumption destroys the valuable antioxidants as well as the gorgeous flavour components, minerals and vitamins.
  Consumers, as well as reputable eateries should by no means compromise their right to high quality olive oil in lieu of inferior products. South African olive oils regularly bring home armfuls of accolades and present the consumer with extreme value for money and a secure high quality product.
  For further information regarding the SA Olive Commitment to Compliance scheme or a list of participating members, contact SA Olive at tel (021) 870 2900, fax (021) 870 2915, e-mail info@saolive.co.za or visit www.saolive.co.za.

Distell Brandies Make a Golden Debut at 2010 Veritas Awards

Distell brandies continued with their impressive run in world-class competitions by taking no fewer than four double gold and seven gold medals at the 2010 Veritas Awards.

 
Leading the pack was Van Ryn’s with two double gold awards and two golds in the potstill brandy category, with its 12 Year Old Distillers Reserve and 20 Year Old Collectors Reserve winning double gold and the 10 Year Old Vintage and 15 Year Old Fine Cask Reserve taking gold. Earlier this year, the 10 Year Old Vintage also won a gold medal at the International Spirits Challenge, while the 12 Year Old Distillers Reserve and the 15 Year Old Fine Cask Reserve were both awarded gold medals (best in class) at the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC). The 15 Year Old also took gold in the International Spirits Challenge (ISC).

“With both local and international gold awards under its belt, it is once again a confirmation that Van Ryn's brandy is certainly of the best in the world,” says Adele Ankiewicz, spokesperson for Distell’s brandy portfolio.

Oude Meester Reserve 12 Year Old and Klipdrift Gold also received double gold awards in the potstill brandy category at Veritas, while Oude Meester Demant walked off with a gold medal. Gold medals in the potstill brandy category were also awarded to Collison’s White Gold and Nederburg Solera Brandy.

In the standard brandy category, Klipdrift Export and Oude Meester VSOB took gold to complete a near whitewash for the Distell brandy portfolio. Klipdrift Export was also awarded gold earlier this year at the IWSC, while Oude Meester VSOB took gold (best in class) at the same competition.

The panel of local and international judges at Veritas follows strict international guidelines and all tastings are done “blind”. Individual judges allocate points on a 20-point scale whereafter the marks are discussed and consensus reached.

A double gold medal is awarded to a wine or brandy that scores 18 or more out of 20, while a score of 17 points ensures a wine or brandy a gold medal. Silver implies a score of 16 points and bronze a score of 15 points.

Veritas, the “Oscars” of wine competitions, celebrates two decades as South Africa’s leading and most respected competition for quality market-ready wines this year. This year brandy was invited to join the proud Veritas tradition along with the almost 1 700 wines entered by about 300 producers for the 2010 tastings.

The Veritas Awards give recognition to wines and brandies of exceptional quality and the distinctive Veritas symbol of excellence serves as an authoritative quality guideline for wine lovers and connoisseurs.

Asked why Veritas has finally introduced a South African brandy category to this prestigious competition, veteran distiller, wine and spirits writer, national and international judge, consultant and Brandy Guild member Dave Hughes replied: “I think it was an excellent opportunity for our brandies that do so exceptionally well in major international competitions to compete in a top local arena and showcase their greatness to local consumers through the resultant marketing and media attention.

“The two, wine and brandy, rest side by side and often, to me, are so entwined that it’s difficult to tell where one ends and the other begins.

“Modern South African brandies have a pureness that others are still striving to achieve. Yet, despite this high level of purity or ‘cleanness’, they still have loads of flavour and character. We are also special in that we make brandies of different types and styles to cater for both the mixer and sipping markets. We do not try to make one brandy to please all.”

He added that contemporary South Africans should be exploring South African brandies as the modern spirit of the nation.

Peninsula School Feeding Association Dinner Pics

What a great night at Reuben's with Darren (Grande Provence), Neil (Bread and Wine), Margot (LQF) and Reuben. Meals all centred around the staples of close to 300000 Western Cape school kids fed by the PSFA - Pilchards, Samp, Beans, Bread, Rice, Cabbage, Carrots and Oranges.

Pilchards: Puree in a Tomato Tuile with Carrot chutney.

Pilchards: Finished!

Reuben's Samp and Beans - not what I was expecting...

Neil's (Soya) Sausage, Lentil and Cabbage Mash

Dessert by Darren: Orange sorbet, Jam on Bread and Rice with Orange Marmalade.

Please sir, may I have some more!